Monday, June 9, 2014
AFF 2014 - Roberta Pieri x Jonathan Liang SS14 and DressCamp FW14
I was really excited to learn that Jonathan Liang would be showing his SS14 collection alongside Italian leather bag brand Roberta Pieri. I have been following his works since two years ago when I first saw it on a small runway during the opening of Workshop Element over at Wisma Atria (now closed and moved to Westgate). Liang has always been very good combining modern, edgy elements with femininity, which is almost akin to my own personal style. The garments carry an European sensibility with easy separates which translate easily from the runway to street.
For his SS14 collection, Liang took the inspiration of Bertil Nilsson's work on human anatomy, and vast seabeds and coral reefs and translated them into the textures in his clothes. Silk organza was overlaid simple separates of a crop top and pencil skirt, incorporated into paneled shirts and blouses - which gave the garment a beautiful movement while revealing and covering bits of the female body.
There was also tweed, pleather, and ring-spun jerseys, and I especially love how he mixed up the fabrics to give a peplum silhouette, but yet adding chiffon at the bottom of an ordinary peplum pencil skirt. Once again, a laudable collection with versatile separates that can easily fit into the modern girl's wardrobe.
Dresscamp, by Japanese designer Iwaya, was brought in by Parco Japan this season, a stark contrast to Jun Okamoto's poetic collection last year. Inspired by the Japanese version of the musical "The Threepenny Opera", Dresscamp's FW14 collection followed the dramatic elements of the 1920s musical comedy era of The Threepenny Opera with white tights, headpieces, ribbon neckties and ruffles seen on both male and female models alike.
The dramatic prints and styling, however, did not detract me from noticing the mastery in cut in the blazers and puffer jackets for menswear, which stood out for their precision, ending just right to control the silhouette projected. Quite a few of the prints for menswear was reworked into womenswear as well, as can be seen above, with added elements of lace, ruffles and tulle fabricated into dramatic silhouettes of a nipped in waist and voluminous skirt. I particularly liked a dress that featured tulle stuffed with roses, which I unfortunately couldn't get a photo of. The coveted accessory of the show was actually a gold-framed handphone case crafted to look what the modern day's Wicked Witch of the East might carry.
Even though I overhead some saying after the shows that the pieces were only showroom worthy, I thought the styling (especially hair and makeup) on the models reminded me of an earlier era of John Galliano's works, which I terribly miss. Kudos for Iwaya for bringing it back on the runway.