Jackie JS Lee's designs completely won me over with the elegant fluidity and movement in her pleated sheer maxi dresses and voluminous palazzo pants. Her sleek silhouette and minimalistic design makes it the collection urban and suitable for the modern women, but yet at the same time her clothes possess such great movement that there was a subtle reference to Romanticism as well. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Jackie was originally from Korea (which was revealed when I overheard jabbering away in rapid Korean with her friend) and has only been designing for 2 years. That's really amazing considering that she has such a clear and consistent focus in her collection and has already established her brand DNA based on minimalism.
I would say that she is a minimalist in terms of her design aesthetic, as can be seen from her primary colour palette of neutrals, white and navy, but yet a maximalist in terms of details and textures.
For one of her outerwear pieces, Jackie used a textured fabric which she sourced in Italy that had navy threads sewn onto the heavy cotton. The result appeared to be like navy paintstrokes that dried on a white canvas, giving great texture to the fabric.
Chiffon was presourced and then custom pleated at a factory to be made into a boyfriend blazer with satin lapels, which brought a 3D effect to an otherwise relaxed piece of outerwear. The subtle print of white polka dots were actually printed onto the primary fabric with suede, which felt luxurious to the touch.
It was not just the amazing attention paid to the fabric - Jackie also incorporated tiny details into her design through press-button closures and openwork stitching along the seams of blazers, trousers and collars on the blouses and dresses. The asymmetric layers and lightweight pleated chiffon gave her designs a breath of fresh air, while gold utility zippers incorporated into the backs of the dresses made a nice contrast against her soft,
floaty fabrics. Perfect for Singapore's weather.
Looking at her designs reminds me of this Japanese painting. The constantly billowing hemlines, inverted box pleated pants and the weightlessness of her fabric reminds me of the lapping waves, but yet in an overall perspective, there is a certain stillness or rather, calmness to her collection.